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Gemstone Guidelines

    Color      
      
. Hue  
       . Saturation 
       .
Tone
    Clarity
    Cut
    Distinctive Phenomena
    Treatments / Enhancements
    Chatham Created Gemtones



It is noted here that distinctness of phenomena, if present, can be a major price factor in a colored gemstone. Stars (star rubies and star sapphires are the best known star gems), Cat's-eyes, alexandrite's change of color, opal's fire, are among many.



A treatment (or enhancement) is defined as any process other than cutting and polishing, such as heating, oiling, irradiation, waxing, or dying which alters and improves the appearance (color/clarity/phenomena), durability, value or availability of a gemstone.

When you spend a few hundred dollars on a gem, the treatment is normally not a major issue. In fact, you can just assume that in today's gem market many gemstones such as rubies, sapphires, aquamarines, and tanzanites have been heat treated, and the emeralds have been treated with oil and fracture filled. Treatment processes may range from simple heating (such as for tanzanite) to high-tech irradiation (such as for blue topaz). The American Gem Trade Association or AGTA offers guidelines that are the most stringent in the industry.

Some gemstone enhancements are less stable than others, meaning that the appearance of a gem may change over time. At Jewelplus.com only gemstones whose enhancements (if any) have good to excellent stability are offered. A gemstone enhancement is considered stable as long as the gem does not change in appearance (color, clarity) under normal wear, cutting, cleaning, repair or display conditions.

Our advise is to enjoy wearing these gems and appreciate the fact that treatments allow you to buy more attractive stones at lower prices.

Natural
Gemstone
Enhancement
Symbol
Variety
Stability
Care
Requirements
Agate
D
Excellent to good
Normal

Fire Agate

N
Normal
Alexandrite
N
Normal
Amber
E or H
Very good to good
X-Special
D
Variable
Special
Amethyst
E or H
Excellent
X-Special
Ametrine
N
Normal
Andalusite
N
Normal
Aquamarine
E or H
Excellent
Normal
Beryl
R
Maxixe
Poor
X-Special
R
Yellow
Variable
Special
N
Yellow-green
Normal
E or O
Red
Very good to fair
Special
Chalcedony
D
Black
Excellent to good
Normal
D
Banded
Excellent
Normal
D
Green
Good to fair
Special
D
Blue
Good to fair
Special
E or H
Carnelian
Excellent
Normal
D
Carnelian
Excellent to good
X-Special
D
Jasper
Excellent
Normal
N
Chrysoprase
Normal
Chrysoberyl
N
Transparent
Normal
R
Cat’s eye
Excellent
Normal
Citrine
E or H
Excellent
Normal
Coral
N
Black
X-Special
E or B
White
Good
Special
E or W
Pink
Good
Special
I
Orange
Good
Special
B
Gold
Very good
Special
D
Red
Variable
X-Special
Natural
Gemstone
Enhancement
Symbol
Description
Used
Stability
Care
Requirements
Diamond
L
Very good
Normal
C
Very good to poor
Special
F
Very good
Special
HP
Unknown
Special
Diamond – Fancy
R
Excellent to very good
Special
L
Very good
Normal
F
Very good
Special
C
Fair to poor
Normal
H
Unknown
Normal
Diopside – Chrome
N
X-Special
Emerald
E or O
Very good to fair
Special
D
Variable
Special
Garnet
N
All varieties
X-Special
E or H
Some demantoid
Very good
X-Special
Hematite
N
Normal
Iolite
N
Normal
Jade – Jadeite
E or W
Fair
Special
B and I
Green/purple/white
Very good to good
Special
D
Variable
Special
B and W
Poor
Special
Jade – Nephrite
D
Unknown
Special
Kunzite
E or H
Fair
Special
R
Fair
Special
Natural
Gemstone
Enhancement
Symbol
Description
Used
Stability
Care
Requirements
Lapis lazuli
E or W
Fair
Special
D
Variable
Special
Moonstone
N
Normal
Morganite
E or H
Excellent
Normal
Opal
O
White/black
Fair
Special
I
Good
Special
O
Boulder
Good
Special
D
Matrix
Good
Special
N
Fire opal
X-Special
I
Cat’s eye
Good
Special
I/O/D
Hydrophane
Good to fair
Special
Pearl – Natural
E or B
White
Very good
Special
D
Very good to good
Special
Pearl – Cultured
E or B
White
Excellent
Special
D
Many colors
Variable
Special
R
Black/gray
Very good
Special
Peridot
E or O
Good to fair
Special
F
Good
Special
Ruby
E or H
Excellent
Normal
Fh
Excellent
Normal
O
Good to fair
Special
D
Poor
Special
R
Unknown
Normal
F
Very good to fair
Special
U
Good
Special
Natural
Gemstone
Enhancement
Symbol
Description
Used
Stability
Care
Requirements
Sapphire
E or H
Excellent
Normal
U
Good
Special
O
Good to fair
Special
Sapphire – Fancy
E or H
Excellent
Normal
R
Yellow/orange
Very poor
X-Special
O
Good to fair
Special
Serpentine
D
Various colors
Good to fair
Special
E or W
Very good to good
Special
Spinel
N
Normal
Sugelite
N
Normal
Sunstone
N
Normal
Tanzanite
E or H
Excellent
X-Special
Topaz
R
Blue
Excellent
Normal
R
Yellow/orange
Variable
Special
R
Green
Poor
X-Special
U
Green
Good
Special
N
Brown
X-Special
E or H
Red/pink
Excellent
Normal
Natural
Gemstone
Enhancement
Symbol
Description
Used
Stability
Care
Requirements
Tourmaline
N
Chrome green
Normal
N
Cat’s Eye
Normal
E or H
Yellow/orange
Excellent
Normal
R
Yellow/orange
Very good
Normal
E or H
Green/blue
Excellent
Normal
O
Any color
Good to fair
Special
E or H
Pink/red/purple
Excellent
Normal
R
Pink/red/purple
Good
Normal
D
Pink/red/purple
Fair to poor
Special
Turquoise
W
Fair to poor
Special
D
Poor
X-Special
I
Good
Special
Zircon
N
Green/brown
X-Special
E or H
Blue/colorless
Fair to poor
Special
E or H
Yellow
Good
Special
E or H
Red
Fair to poor
Special

B: Bleaching - Process involves the use of heat, light and/or chemicals or other agents to lighten or remove a gemstone's color.

C: Coating - 
Process is often accompanied by subsequent dying and/or impregnation.
The use of such surface enhancements as lacquering, enameling, inking, foiling, or sputtering of films to improve appearance, provide color or add other special effects.

D: Dyeing or Staining - 
Process involves the introduction of coloring matter into a gemstone to give it new color, intensify existing color or improve color uniformity.

E: Normally Enhanced - 
Gemstones that are routinely enhanced.

F: Filling - 
Process involves filling of the surface-breaking cavities with colorless glass, plastic, or similar substance. This process will improve durability, appearance and/or add weight.

FH: Flux Heating - 
During heat enhancement, fluxes (or heat alone) may be used to heal fractures.

H: Heating - 
The use of heat to alter color, clarity, and/or phenomena.

I: Impregnation - 
The impregnation of a porous gemstone with a colorless agent (usually plastic) to give it durability and improve appearance.

L: Lasering - 
The use of a laser and chemicals to reach and alter inclusions.

N: Not Enhanced - 
Gemstones that are not currently known to be enhanced.

O: Oiling/Resin Infusion -
The filling of surface-breaking cracks with a colorless oil, wax, resin or other colorless substances, except glass or plastic, to improve the gemstone's appearance.

R: Irradiation - 
The use of neutrons, gamma, ultraviolet and/or electron bombardment to alter a gemstone's color. The irradiation may be followed by a heating process.

U: Diffusion - 
The use of chemicals in conjunction with high temperatures to produce color and/or asterism-producing inclusions.

W: Waxing/Oiling - 
The impregnation of a colorless wax, paraffin and/or oil in porous gemstones to improve appearance.



Created gems, mostly ruby, emerald and sapphire are now commonly found in jewelry stores. They share the same crystal and optical properties at their natural counterpart, but are usually cleaner and represent the finest natural colors. They are not synthetic or simulates they are real, just not natural. If you want a large stone, but can't afford a natural then consider created gems.

In 1938 Carroll Chatham made a remarkable discovery that revolutionized the jewelry industry. After years of research and determination he uncovered the secret of growing Emeralds (and later Rubies and Blue Sapphires and Pink Sapphires and Alexandrites) in a laboratory environment setting. CHATHAM created gemstones are not simulants or imitations. They are gemstones possessing the exact same optical and chemical properties as their naturally occurring counterparts. The EXACT same elements and the EXACT same chemical composition. Only the eye of a trained gemologist can distinguish the subtle variations between a CHATHAM created Gem and those of Mother Earth itself. This unique process which duplicates the conditions deep within the earth where Gem crystals grow remains carefully guarded family secret. Today CHATHAM continues as the largest and most innovative producer of fine quality lab-grown gemstones in the world. Chatham has patented this unique process. Please see jewelplus.com catalog for selections.

Grading system used:
1) Gem Quality - Eye clean stone.
2) Fine Quality - Slightly Included.
3) A - Less brilliance more heavily included.